He died at ninety, in 2013, still the man who'd argued a marsh out of being drained. Before that, sherry: a solera is rows of barrels stacked in tiers, and you draw only from the oldest row and top it up from the one above, and that one from the one above it. Nothing's ever finished and nothing's ever new. Look at the photo, that sand floor they keep damp on purpose \u2014 same thinking as the wetland, really, you don't let it dry out.
Doñana takes in something like half a million waterbirds over winter, greylags mostly, plus the last of the Iberian lynx hanging on in the scrub. The park came in 1969, after years of people arguing with drainage plans. Rosa, the damp floor comparison is closer than you'd think — the marsh works on the same slow topping-up.
The white film of yeast on a fino has a name, flor, and it feeds on the wine's own alcohol while it's sitting there. A crop growing on top of the barrel, which fits the marsh man rather nicely.